Maine 2004
In August 2004 Tom and Lisa and Molly and Joe and Jeff and Tiffa rented a house at Seal Cove in Maine. This is the story of their trip, based on Tiffa’s diary.
Wednesday 11 August
The flight from Gatwick to Toronto went wonderfully and really passed quite quickly. Molly sat with Jeff and me and Joe with Tom and Lisa. We arrived in Toronto at 5.30 local time and passed through immigration very quickly and there was no problem at all but when we got to National Car Rental it took an hour to get the car and we were very fed up. However when we saw the car we were thrilled – a good seven-seater – bright red and very comfortable. We found our way to the Holiday Inn at Oshawa about an hour away and the children were still good despite it being 1.30 am at home. We all had a quick, rather sleepy, supper and went to bed at about 9 pm local time.
Thursday 12 August
Up very early ‘cos of jet-lag and a long way to drive. Up the north side of Lake Ontario for a huge breakfast at Denny’s in Kingston. Corned beef hash for Tom and Jeff and the first stack of pancakes with maple syrup for the kids. Then on to the 1000 islands area just on the US border.
We arrived at the look-out tower and waited 15 minutes for it to open at 9 am. We were the first people up and it was spectacular looking out over the St Lawrence River and all the islands. It began to rain so we came down for a bit of shopping: T-shirts for Jeff and Tom and Davy Crockett hats for Molly and Joe!
We had to park to clear immigration into the US but everyone was really nice. They filled in all our forms for us and charged us $6 each. We were really glad we’d come via Canada.
We drove on across New York State through the Adirondacks, beautiful but rainy, and stopped for a great lunch at the “Tail o’ the Pup’. Jeff and Tom shared a monster plate of ribs and Lisa and I split a lobster plate.
We got to the Holiday Inn at Lake Placid at about 3 pm and Jeff and I took the kids for a walk through the village while Tom and Lisa had a snooze. We had dinner vouchers for the Holiday Inn but luckily their restaurant was closed so we used them at The Boat House, a really nice restaurant around the corner of the lake. Everyone was pretty tired so we had another early night.
Friday 13 August
Molly slept with us last night and kicked me out of bed. When she greets me in the morning she says: “Hello Dear”. Very wet this morning but we walked down into Lake Placid for breakfast at the Northern Lights Inn. Molly and Joe are now well into pancakes. Lisa and I had scrambled eggs on an English muffin and, of course, Tom and Jeff had the full American. All washed down with lots of coffee and orange juice.
Tom gave the children their holiday money included lots of change, which of course they promptly lost. This gave rise to a great Molly-ism when she announced: “I’ve found my cents, everybod”. Lots of jokes then about ‘cents’ and ‘sense’.
We had decided to go to the Ausable Chasm and arrived there at opening time: 9.30 am. It was pouring. The remnants of Hurricane Bonnie passing through. Today Tampa is being evacuated as Florida braces itself for Hurricane Charlie. So although tomorrow will be good weather, Sunday will be bad again, as Charlie comes through New England. Despite all this, we had a lovely time walking through the chasm in the pouring rain. We were the only people there!
We passed on the rafting opportunity and headed off to make the 11.20 ferry across Lake Champlain. We couldn’t see the lake at all because of the weather and the children were making a lot of noise in the back of the car and had to be separated.
Heard in the back of the car today:
- Molly: “Joe, which do you like best: Animals or trees?”
- Joe: “Trees”
- Molly: “I like animals best.”
- Joe: “You get oxygen from trees.”
- Molly: “Actually I like animals and trees.”
- Joe: “So do I.”
Later on:
- Molly: “ I wish I’d got a little tap.”
What did she mean?
It turned out she was rubbing a dirty mark with some soap. All she needed was a little tap.
We travelled on through very heavy rain.
There was even a civil emergency announcement on the radio warning of flooding in the area: “Head for higher ground and if your vehicle stalls, leave it.” We were up in the hills when we heard this, so not too worried.
It was a great pity the weather was so awful as Tom had been really looking forward to the Kancamangus Highway. It would have been beautiful in the sunshine.
We arrived at the Red Fox Inn in North Conway where we had a big family room with a loft area that Jeff and I grabbed.
We headed out in search of food, but the first two places we tried looked awful: huge people in long queues. We wound up on a nice corner table at ‘The Homestead’ just next door to our hotel.
Saturday 14 August
We left early again, really excited about getting to the house, and stopped for breakfast in Naples on Sebago Lake. The restaurant was called “The Flight Deck” and there was a seaplane parked outside. Another seaplane landed while we were eating. We had a lovely breakfast looking over the lake and, finally, the sun was shining.
After breakfast we skirted Portland and headed up the coast to Freeport where we spent a couple of hours shopping in the LL Bean factory village. We bought new suitcases – the zips had gone on both our old ones – and some trainers for Jeff to help with his ‘Policeman’s Heel’.
Heading on up Route 1 we ran into very slow traffic. It was a bore but we made it to Wiscasset were we stopped to take out sandwiches from a great store called ‘Treats’. We also bought loads of wine and cheese.
As the traffic had delayed us we decided to go straight to the house and leave the shopping until later.
We arrived at Saltwater Farm and loved it immediately. The house is an old Cape set in the trees overlooking Seal Cove. The sun was shining so it was hot outside but lovely and cool inside.
We ate our sandwiches on the deck then Lisa and I and the children unpacked and began to explore our new home while Tom and Jeff went off with a very long shopping list.
When they came back everyone but me went swimming. Tom and the children had their wetsuits on. Jeff didn’t stay in long because it was pretty cold. Molly and Tom swam right out to the islands in the middle of the cove. Joe got tired part way and hung on to a mooring buoy while Jeff and I rowed out to pick him up. Lisa got changed and swam out to join the others on the rock while we drifted in the boat.
The children had their supper and went off to bed. Tom cooked us a lovely pasta and we went off to bed at the proper time for the first time since we left England. We all slept really well.
Sunday 15 August
Awoke to overcast skies and rain. Tom made blueberry pancakes. Although we’d decided not to get in to the car today, because of the weather we did a little exploring. We particularly wanted to find out where to buy lobsters. We found our way to the Pemaquid co-op, but because of a water pump failure they were closed until Monday. We stopped at Reilly’s in New Harbor and Tom made us a wonderful clam chowder for lunch.
We spent the afternoon on the shore; Molly went in to the water in search of crabs and Joe and I fished off the dock. Needless-to-say, we didn’t catch anything. We’ll have to go to the hardware store tomorrow for some extra bits for the rods. We took the skiff out in the evening. Such a pretty boat. Lisa and I had half an hour of peace on the water.
We demolished five lobsters for supper. Absolutely delicious. Molly and Joe loved them. They were cracking claws like veterans! Watched the Olympics – then bed.
Monday 16 August
Very wet and rainy. I’m becoming very homesick. Jeff and I went to the hardware store for floats and mackerel jiggers for the fishing rods.
I read quietly down on the dock after lunch. Molly and Joe explored the rocks collecting cockles and other delicacies.
Jeff and I went out in the skiff late afternoon and saw a seal – very exciting – so I came back for Lisa and the children and did it all again.
Tuesday 17 August
Sunny, sunny morning. Tom and Lisa went for a run to South Bristol and back. The children and I started out on a walk but were attacked by mosquitoes so rushed back to the house.
After breakfast we decided to see whether we could rent the boat – organised for next week – any earlier. Jeff and Tom and I went down to Bittersweet Landing and met a very nice man called Mike who can let us have a customer’s boat: a Mako 22 called ‘For Play’. He needed a couple of hours to get the boat ready for us so we headed back home for a spot of fishing and some lunch.
I dropped Tom and Jeff off after lunch to collect the boat. On the way back I found that the car was nearly empty. I was holding my breath! They arrived back at the dock very quickly and we all went off up the river. Around the corner in the next cove up there were lots of seals. I’d brought the camera, but no memory card so no photos!
Wednesday 18 August
Jeff and I went for a wonderful early morning row and took lots of pictures of herons, cormorants and even seals. When we came back to the dock Tom was fishing and we managed to snag his line. When we were untangling it we discovered he’d caught a fish – a lovely striped bass.
After lunch we took the boat through the Gut and across John’s Bay for a look at Pemaquid Beach. Very crowded! Then we went down through the ‘Thread of Life’ and around Turnip Island back into the Damariscotta River. We stopped at Christmas Cove for beers. Molly had a ‘Shirley Temple’ and Joe had a ‘Roy Rogers’.
That evening Tom and the kids went fishing again in the hope of catching another bass but no luck so we took the obligatory photos and then ate our catch of the day.
It was a wonderful fish and plenty for the six of us.
Thursday 19 August
A day out to Camden and lunch at the Waterfront Restaurant where we’d been almost thirty years ago with Roger and Judi and Nick and Sue.
Friday 20 August
Muggy and overcast here all day with occasional very short sunny spells. Tom and Lisa took the kids of to Funtown and Splashtown south of Portland where it was very hot.
Jeff and I took the boat over to East Boothbay, then through the Gut and across to Pemaquid Harbor and finally back to Christmas Cove for lunch on the deck.
Saturday 21 August
Thunderstorms last night and torrential rain all day. Jeff and I went to Reilly’s for provisions and on to Damariscotta. Got some shrimps at the Fish Market and had a nice latte and espresso in the Maine Book Store and managed to get money from the drive-in ATM.
Tom made crab cakes for lunch and we had a very lazy day. Laura called – she’s coming tomorrow. Lisa and I took the kids for a very wet walk.
Sunday 22 August
Tom and Lisa and Molly started the day with a cold cold swim followed by a long soak in the hot tub. Then Tom made us all blueberry pancakes for breakfast. Laura arrived at about 10.30 and we spent the morning catching up. We had drinks and crackers with a wonderful crab and avocado dip on the dock followed by lunch on the deck: clam chowder and grilled shrimps. Wonderful!
After lunch we took the boat out into the river for half an hour. When we got back Tom and Molly entertained us for a while. Laura left just before supper after insisting that we take a picture to email to Kenneth and Susan.
Monday 23 August
After early morning swimming and hot tub sessions we took the boat on a beautiful ride up river to Damariscotta. We docked at Scooner Landing and wandered around town for an hour. Lisa bought sandals for Joey and a jigsaw puzzle. Molly and Joe bought animals with their holiday money.
Following a great lunch on the dock Lisa bought a lovely Sockeyed salmon for our supper. Tom picked up a few more bottles of white wine and we headed back to Seal Cove.
The kids went off to bed and we settled down to our supper. The salmon was fabulous with rosemary potatoes and asparagus. Molly came down in a bit of a state because she loves being a child and she doesn’t want to have to grow up. She’s realised she’s going to be ten next year and she doesn’t want to be ‘two digits’ old!
Tuesday 24 August
Jeff and I went to Damariscotta to redeem all our bottles (15c for every wine bottle) and get cash and gas. We stopped for a disappointing breakfast at The Breakfast Place.
We planned to go round to Christmas Cove for lunch on the boat before turning her in, but she wouldn’t start! Jeff was very cranky. Lisa rowed the kids out to the island and they spent ages there beachcombing.
I went for a bracing swim while Tom and Jeff sat on the dock with wine and tortilla chips. When Lisa and the kids returned we had a wonderful lunch on the deck: fried scallops and salad and hot dogs for Molly and Joe. Tears from Mollie because ‘For Play’ had broken down: “It was going to be my best trip ever!”
Mike Nyboe turned up at about 4 pm and we were quite relieved when he struggled to start the boat. He got it going eventually and went off with a fair bit of spluttering!
Wednesday 25 August
Today we decided to drive round to Boothbay Harbor. We started at the Aquarium, a wonderful little exhibit on a beautiful site just across from the town.
Molly and Joe were fascinated by the little sharks which they could touch as they swam around their tanks. There was also a super open tank full of shore creatures that they could pick up and examine: horseshoe crabs; sea cucumbers; starfish; sea urchins and so on.
It was a lovely day and we lingered outside to enjoy the peace and quiet.
Back in Boothbay Harbor we went looking for Christopher’s Boathouse but it had obviously closed down. We wound up at another ‘Boathouse’ in the heart of town and got a table up on the roof deck with a great view over the harbor. Shrimps and steamers, mussels and crab cakes. Delicious!
When we got back to Seal Cove the tide was high and Lisa and Molly took the skiff over to the little island as the sun was beginning to set.
Thursday 26 August
Jeff and I went for a lovely quiet row first thing. Across the cove and around the little island on the far side, then back along the shore. After the customary blueberry pancakes we went to Bittersweet Landing to pay for the boat.
We had a long chat with Mike Nyboe who only charged us for five days. A very pleasant surprise! We went on to Christmas Cove to take some pictures then stopped in South Bristol for a few emergency supplies: wine and cornflakes.
Tom made clam chowder – his best yet – for lunch and we had a lazy afternoon waiting for a delivery from Amazon: Tom got a new camera and Jeff some little speakers for his computer. Molly and Joe built a great Indian camp in the woods and went searching on the shore for interesting creatures.
Friday 27 August
A slightly overcast cooler day. Jeff and I went to New Harbor with the empty bottles and on down to the Pemaquid Lighthouse. We walked on the rocks and took a few photos, then on to Round Pond. Lunch was Nachos and Clam Chowder.
After lunch we all snoozed and then Lisa took Molly and Joe swimming. We decided to go to the Round Pond Lobsterman’s Co-operative for an early dinner. We stopped for beers and cokes at the General Store and then ate our lobsters and corn on the deck. A great way to finish off our Maine holiday.
Saturday 28 August
Bacon, eggs and sausage for breakfast to use up our supplies and then off via Hannaford’s to drop our empties and Damiriscotta for Lisa to buy rings.
We decided to go via the Kancamangus Highway as the weather had been so bad on the way down.
We shopped, rather unsuccessfully, at the outlet shops in North Conway and then had a great lunch at the Muddy Moose. The mountains were wonderful all the way across New Hampshire and into Vermont, and even the run down I-91 to Brattleboro’ was very scenic. We stayed at the Nutmeg Inn.
Gerry, the owner, recommended Jerry’s Deck Bar and Grille for dinner, so that’s where we went. We started out on the deck but were driven under cover by a furious thunderstorm.
Sunday 29 August
We started the day with a great breakfast and Gerry took a photo of us under his sign before we left.
A long, but pretty painless, drive took us all the way across New York State to Niagara Falls where we crossed into Canada and checked in to the Sheraton Falls View. Great adjoining rooms with a fantastic view of the falls. We walked out to get a close up view in torrential rain! After tubs and showers we ate at Tony Roma’s and then back to out room to enjoy the illuminations and the fireworks.
As Molly said: “A night to remember.”
Monday 30 August
Got up fairly late and went down for a good breakfast in the Sheraton. Tom and Lisa and Molly and Joe went off to the ‘Maid of the Mist’ and Jeff and I went ‘Behind the Falls’.
We met up at noon to check out then off to Marineworld for the afternoon. Everyone but me went on the Dragon roller coaster several times. We visited the Beluga and Killer Whales, and finally caught a terrific Sea Lion and Dolphin show. We got to the Toronto airport in good time for our overnight flight home which was very smooth.
A great holiday!